4 Effective Hangboard Workouts That Work
  • Understanding Hangboarding
  • Why Hangboard Workouts Are Effective
  • Workout 1: Basic Dead Hangs
  • Workout 2: Repeaters
  • Workout 3: Max Hangs
  • Workout 4: Touch-and-Go
  • Choosing the Right Hangboard
  • Conclusion
  • FAQs

Understanding Hangboarding

Before diving into the workouts, let’s get a grasp of what hangboarding actually is. Hangboarding involves using a specialized training board equipped with various holds to perform exercises that target your fingers and grip. The beauty of this training method lies in its versatility—whether you’re training for bouldering competitions or trying to conquer tougher climbing routes, hangboarding can cater to all levels.

Why Hangboard Workouts Are Effective

Building Finger Strength

Hangboarding primarily focuses on building finger strength. By regularly challenging your grip, you stimulate muscle growth in your fingers and forearms. This is crucial for climbers since stronger fingers translate to better performance on climbing walls and routes.

Improving Grip Endurance

Another significant benefit of hangboarding is the enhancement of grip endurance. Climbers often face lengthy routes that demand sustained grip strength. Hangboard workouts allow you to simulate this fatigue, ensuring your hands and fingers are well-prepared for real climbing situations.

Workout 1: Basic Dead Hangs

Steps to Perform Dead Hangs

  1. Warm-up: Always start with a proper warm-up to avoid injuries. A quick jog or light stretching can do wonders!
  2. Grip the Holds: Choose a hold that feels challenging but manageable. Aim for larger holds if you’re a beginner.
  3. Hang: With both hands on the hold, let your body hang freely. Keep your shoulders engaged and don’t let them hunch up.
  4. Duration: Aim for 10 seconds of hanging, then rest for 1-2 minutes. Repeat this for 5 sets.
  5. Cooldown: After your sets, stretch your fingers and forearms to promote flexibility.

Workout 2: Repeaters

Steps to Perform Repeaters

  1. Choose Your Holds: Pick a hold that allows you to hang comfortably but still challenges your grip.
  2. Hang and Release: Hang for 7 seconds, then rest for 3 seconds. This short rest is where the magic happens!
  3. Repeat: Complete 7 repetitions of this cycle for each set. Rest for 2-3 minutes between sets.
  4. Aim for 4 Sets: Try to complete 4 sets, and remember to focus on form and breathing.

Workout 3: Max Hangs

Steps to Perform Max Hangs

  1. Select a Challenging Hold: Choose a hold that you can only hang from for a few seconds. This will push your limits!
  2. Hang: Engage your shoulders and hang for as long as possible. Aim for a maximum of 10 seconds.
  3. Rest: Take a 3-minute rest between each max hang. This workout is tough but oh-so-rewarding!
  4. Complete 4 Sets: Perform a total of 4 sets, focusing on maximal effort.

Workout 4: Touch-and-Go

Steps to Perform Touch-and-Go

  1. Grip the Hold: Start by hanging from a comfortable hold.
  2. Lower and Release: Lower your feet slightly and let go for just a moment before grabbing the hold again.
  3. Duration: Aim for 10-15 seconds of hanging with several touches.
  4. Repeat: Perform 5 sets of this exercise, resting for 2-3 minutes between sets. This simulates the dynamic movements often required in climbing.

Choosing the Right Hangboard

Recommended Hangboards

To get the most out of your hangboarding experience, you need the right gear. Here are three hangboards I personally recommend:

Conclusion

Hangboard workouts are a fantastic way to build finger strength and grip endurance, two critical components for any climber aiming to tackle more challenging routes and problems. Whether you're just starting or looking to refine your technique, incorporating these workouts into your training regimen can yield significant results. Remember, consistency is key, so stick with it and watch your climbing skills soar!

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I do hangboard workouts?

It’s recommended to hangboard 2-3 times a week, allowing for proper recovery.

Can beginners use a hangboard?

Absolutely! Start with larger holds and gradually progress to smaller ones as you build strength.

What is the best hangboard for home training?

The PentagonPro Portable Wooden Hangboard is highly recommended for its versatility and quality.

How long should my hangboard sessions last?

Aim for 20-30 minutes per session, including warm-up and cooldown.

Should I consult a coach before starting hangboard workouts?

If you’re new to climbing or unsure about your technique, working with a coach can be very beneficial to prevent injuries.

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